Friday in Netanya, we collected all the Mazers as they arrived from their various homes; Ariel from the south (below Be’er Sheva), Monty and Daniella from the North (well Haifa is North of Netanya!) who all came by train, and Shoshana,
Nomi and Elan who drove in from the East, Jerusalem, (Guess who drove; right, not Shoshana). Shabbat at the beach was great. We stayed, as noted last week, at a great hotel, the Seasons, were every room has a huge balcony overlooking the Mediterranean. We had our Shabbat meals in Kiryan Sanz, a Hassidic enclave that features the Galei Sanz Hotel. The meals were, as we say, Heimish (like at home, or more like, your bubbie/grandma’s kitchen) and the atmosphere was very Eastern European. Seriously the food was good and plentiful, but before you make reservations to stay there, I can show you some pictures of the place,,,,(Hamayveen Yaveen aka a word is sufficient to the wise).We enjoyed our walks along the boardwalk between the hotels, spent lots of time in the park with Shoshana, and lots of chatter, singing and chilling. A Shabbat to remember. However, by Saturday night, the couples were heading back to their respective homes, primarily to work on exams and prepare for the week ahead. Ariel had to catch a train early Sunday morning, but that gave us some time to wander on the pedestrian mall near the beach, grab a slice of pizza (or a crepe) and hang out for a while.
So now that we were alone in a lovely beach town, what do you do? You go for a long walk along the shore, hang out on a lounge chair and then do some cool touring. Sunday afternoon, we drove about 20 minutes North to Caesarea, the legendary city where King Herod built a palace on a cliff overlooking the sea (everyone wants a beachfront property….) and the famous Amphitheatre of Caesarea which is used for shows up until today (ticket prices have gone up a bit, though). They were setting up for a show and some type of party while we were there. The ancient town of Caesarea, as most of Ancient Israel, changed hands a few times; Pheonecian, Greek, Jewish, Roman, Byzantine, Crusader, Marmaluke, Muslim, Ottoman, and British before it returned to become part of Modern Israel. The ancient town has been excavated and the part that is open to the public is greatly expanded since our last trip there. There is a whole hippodrome from Herod’s time (app 40 BCE), Byzantine bathhouses, Crusader fortresses, and even a Mosque built on the opposite peninsula from the amphitheatre. If you like mosaics, there are some great ones unearthed there. Then, the area around the mosque has been gentrified into an artist colony, with upscale shops, quirky but neat gifts (did you ever see a draidle that tells you nice things to say to your wife, or one that has excuses for your wife to give you?), fancy restaurants and even a seaside sushi shop. A mix of old and new. There is an ancient synagogue (we were told that it is not really viewable, the dig is still in progress) and the marvelous Roman Aquaduct that brought water to the thriving port community in its ancient heyday.
Next (same day!) we drove North-East to Zichron Yaacov, one of the original wine making towns in Israel. The town was established in the 1880’s and the raison d’etre has not changed much; it is still the home to several of Israel’s best known costal vineyards, including Carmel,
Tishbi, Binyamina and several smaller, boutique wineries. We arrived in early evening, and enjoyed the small city center with its artsy boutiques. Dinner was at a dairy restaurant called Nili, where most main dishes or specialty appetizers come with a glass of house wine included. Our kind of place. We sat under the stars and appreciated the freedom that the past generations worked hard for to give us a country to enjoy, and fruits of its vines to savor.Monday was no less packed. We wandered around Netanya in the morning, with another long beach walk (past the beach at Sanz). This time, we drove south in the PM, to Herzliah, which is another resort city, but more built up with fancier hotels. We took in another archeological National Park, this time Appolonia, one we had never heard of. It too had a long history as a port town, but never really recovered after the Marmelukes (early 1200’s; you know, Saladin the Great?) defeated the Crusaders 3-2 on penalty kicks (a little World Cup Joke) and then raized the Crusader castle. There is still quite a bit of the castle standing, which makes for an interesting hike. The park is undergoing increased excavations, so more is in store for the future…
Monday night was another real treat: we were invited to a Barbecue in the town of Nofei Pratt, just south of Maale Adumin, home to Hadas and R’ Nir Grossman. The Grossmans were in our Kollel for 3 years until 2007. They invited several Montrealers who had moved to Israel (all in Maale Adumim); the Singers, the Bouzlans, Moshe the former owner of Yakimono Sushi and his wife (sorry, forgot her name!!) and Ian and Andree Ellbogen, who like us, were still tourists. I am really sorry that I left the camera in the car, as it was a nice reunion. Good thing that Tuesday was a fast day, since they prepared a ton of food!
Tuesday commemorated the 17th day of the Jewish month of Tamuz, which is an annual minor fast in the Jewish calendar. It commemorates five tragic events that tradition holds befell the Jews on that day; the most famous are the destruction of the tablets by Moses because of the sin of the Golden Calf, and the General Titus breaching the walls of Jerusalem in 70 CE. 3 weeks later, the 2nd holy Temple (built during Persian times and then expanded and beautified by Herod in the later years of his rule) was destroyed, which is commemorated by the Fast of the 9th day of Av (Tisha B’av). Thus, this launches the period of mourning that are called “The Three Weeks”, during which time weddings and celebrations are not held, and other, semi-mourning practices are followed.
By Tuesday night, we were allowed to eat again, and, joining us were Lori, Alvan and Jacob Small who arrived from New Jersey that afternoon, We broke the fast in the cool Jerusalem evening at a sidewalk café on Azza street. This is the Bagel Café, highly recommended for a great, fresh sandwich (this is not a paid announcement). Wednesday was back in touring mode, with the Smalls in tow. We took off for Tel Aviv University and the fabulous Palmach Museaum.
This is a really creative way to take a history course, through film and interaction with the characters. It really causes one to pause and wonder how, under the conditions that the people of the fledgling Jewish state had in the early 40’s, they possibly could have won the wars against such huge surrounding populations. Clearly determination was a major factor, with some desperation thrown in. That was reinforced in our afternoon visit, to the Ayalon Institute. From 1945-48, a kibbutz on a hill North of modern day Rehovot had a secret mission: to be the bullet supplier for all of the Jewish state. The Kibbutz produced 2.5 million bullets in 3 years, right under the nose of the British. How did they do it, you ask. I think you’ll have to go your self to see; it’s too good a story to spoil! (There is not even a Wikipedia entry on it, that’s how secret it is). These two museums were sandwiched between a jaunt on the beach in Tel Aviv and a great lunch in Rishon LeTziyon. If that wasn’t enough, we topped off the day with dinner at Mamilla mall (Café Rimon) with Nomi and Elan (and Shoshana for desert!)Thursday was a regular day at the lab, and Barbara visited with her colleague Racheli from Tel Aviv. We spent the evening with Ruth and Itamar Maliach, ex of the Bank Hapoalim Branch in Montreal; it was great to see them and catch up.
Erev Shabbat, we (Mazers, Smalls and Rifka and Alex Guttman) were off to Ir David, the City of David “where it all began”. This was the first unified capital of the Kingdom of Israel under King David, and remained the center of the Jewish world for over 300 years, till the Babylonian invasion of 560, and destruction of the first Holy Temple. The excavation has unearthed homes (including a 3000 year old toilet seat, always a good conversation piece); the area of the King’s palace, and the route that brought water to the city (which is a subterranean tunnel over 3600 years old), as well as the tunnel that redirected the water to the city, built in the time of Hizkiyahu during the Babylonian invasion. Some of us actually waded through this tunnel (thirty minutes in water ranging from ankle to thigh deep) and the other took the “dry route”. So the next time someone tries to convince you that a century old home is a piece of history, you can say that is actually more like infancy…
This was followed by lunch on Ben Yehuda and a quick, lovely, chaotic trip to the central market, Mahanei Yehuda. Lori, surveying the thousands of people pushing and shoving for fruit, veggies and fish (and everything else imaginable) asked when the best time to shop there is. The answer is, it depends. If you want to just shop quickly, come early in the morning. It is quiet and efficient. If you want a bargain, come at the end of the day. The closer to Shabbat, the lower the price. It appears everyone loves a bargain…
Shabbat will again be a special treat, with the Smalls, the Guttmans (Guttmen?), and Ariel joining us. Of course, Shoshana and her parents will be coming for at least one meal!
We are “unfortunately” back to reality starting next Wednesday, but there will be an entry next week to wrap up this trip and share some thoughts.
We wish you all an amazing Shabbat
Barbara and Bruce
Mazel tov to my brother Andy, who’s birthday I forgot to add to this blog last week. Happy Birthday, bro!
Happy Birthday to Steve Fiter, and many more!
Happy Second Birthday (Hebrew calendar) to Shoshana!
Most of all, Happy Anniversary, Barbara, my best friend and partner in all things.
Refuah S’hlema (a complete and speedy recovery) to Gilad Schwartz (Gilad Hillel Ben Bracha Mirel)
Refuah S’hlema (a complete and speedy recovery) to Sylvia Fruchter (Zissel bat Bella)
