Shaloha and Shabbat Shalom!

Shaloha! We continue our 2-week sojourn in Hawaii! By the way, Shaloha is actually used as a greeting by Jewish Hawaiians. Google it. You will also find that it is the name of a Kosher Restaurant in Honolulu, on Ohau. No review this time, since we are not going there. However, we are on Hawaii, the Big Island, so big that all the other Islands in the State of Hawaii can fit into it. A place so diverse that it has almost all the different types of climate zones on the planet all represented on its 4000 square miles. (The internet can’t agree if the world has 11, 13, or 14 different climate zones, but Hawaii is missing those that are best represented by Montreal in winter and the Hudson Bay Area/Canadian Shield. Do you really think they want that?). We actually saw most of these climate zones in our travels over the past few days. So, that means there is quite a bit for us to talk about, and we have only been on the island for 5 days!

Is there Falafel in Paradise? When we last signed off we were seconds before candle-lighting in Maui. As mentioned last week, the synagogue was a bit of a long treacherous walk from our lovely condo, so we spent Shabbat staring out at the ocean, reading books, staring at the pool, having nice meals…very relaxing, and not at all boring. Food thanks to Omnitzky’s in Vancouver and the local fish and produce. Maui rolls up the sidewalks at about 8 PM, so we wandered around the waterfront and then prepared for departure the next day. We flew Hawaiian airlines to Kona, a 30-minute flight. Our condo was to be ready at about 4, so we picked up some provisions (Costco and Target, but Safeway and Walmart in Kona all have a good selection of Kosher products; I can even tell you where to find the Empire Chicken in Safeway). However, after a week of cooking, we wanted to try the Kosher Restaurant in Kona, called Falafel in Paradise. Now, an internet quandary: Google said it was permanently closed, and Facebook said it was open! What to do? Something old fashioned…we used the telephone. Sadly, we reached the owner who told us that indeed, it had closed a few months back.  Alright, back to the kitchen! Fortunately, we will be celebrating Shabbat by having home cooked meals at Chabad of the Big Island; they also deliver individual meals to several area hotels, so check out their web site.

What is the nicest beach in Hawaii? To answer that question fairly, you have to define what you are looking for. Wide sandy expanses? Wonderful snorkeling? Excellent surfing or boogie boarding? Unusual colored sand and rocks? Hot women? OK, leave out the last one, no guide book we read talks about that. However, we visited two can’t miss places. The first, Hapuna Beach, 20 minutes north of the airport, is known for its fine, perfect sand, brilliant blue water and lovely cove like setting. Since it was not winter, it was not even crowded. Better rent an umbrella though, it is uber sunny. Then, on our way to the Volcano National Park (more later) we stopped at Punalu’u Black Sands Beach. This marvel was created by the exploding of lava rock (basalt) by the cold waters of the ocean. The sand is really black!! The cove also has amazing snorkeling, and large sea turtles come up to the reefs to rest or swim. Really cool. What is fun about the Hawaiian coast is that there are beaches people don’t generally even know about or bother to go to. For example, there is a stretch of beaches off of the Kekaha Kai state park which encompass several small coves, salt and pepper sands on a couple (which we saw), and then Makole'a Black Sand Beach, which is a 30-minute walk along the coast (which we did not get to). The reason it is not so popular is a 1.5 mile drive along a road that looks like a lava spill that was not smoothed over. So after a teeth rattling drive, we only had so much hiking energy (as it was close to 6 PM…). The moral of the story is, don’t be afraid to explore, you never know what you will find.

Can you get a cup of coffee in Kona? Of course I am being facetious. This is America! Coffee is everywhere. But, Kona is special. We toured the Greenwell Coffee plantation, tucked 20 minutes south of where we are staying. The Kona Coast is an ideal coffee growing area: volcanic soil, 50-70 in of rain per year, warm temperatures. There are many coffee plantations, with Greenwell among the largest. We learned about Great Grandma Greenwell, the daughter of farmers. She had a degree in Botany, and she hand planted the first 100 trees herself at the age of 70. Never too late to start a new gig! The plantation has 65,000 coffee trees and either harvest or purchases over 3 million lb. of beans per year. We also learned that a coffee bean is the pit of a sweet tasting fruit and that most bean drying is done in the sun. And, when you buy coffee in Hawaii, buyer beware! For some reason, if you have as little as 10% Kona beans, it can be called a Kona blend (which does not guarantee it won’t taste like dishwater). However, 100% Kona beans produces a coffee with low acidity, tons of flavor and no bite. We tasted several roasts and flavor coffees and bought a few bags for gifts (if you’re lucky you’ll get one….). 

How do you like chasing rainbows? After the Punalu’u black sand beach we headed south along highway 11 toward the Volcano National Park. The park is home to two large Volcanos, Mauna Loa which is the world’s largest Mountain (if you count both the part above and in the ocean below the ground) and Kilauea, which is an active volcano. The road to the park meanders along the coast, but is a great road compared to the hair-raising coastal highways in Maui. We wanted to stay till after dark to see the “fireworks”, so we booked a room at the Volcano Inn (not to be confused with the Volcano House which is in the National Park and costs 3 times the price). Volcano National Park has something for everyone; rain forest views, rain, sunshine, huge lava flows (none hot in the park at the moment), giant craters, costal lava rock formations, all organized along 25 miles of roads with stopping points and hiking trails set up off some of the stops. At one crater, Pauahi, we encountered a bit of rain, then mist then…an amazing complete rainbow which haloed the crater and descended into the depth of the rocks. I am not sure the pictures can do it justice, but check it out! 

We continued the drive along “Chain of Craters Road” learning about natural lava trails, Hawaiian Volcano Goddesses (Pe’le), and Pu‘u Loa Petroglyphs (lava rock carvings that were made to unify man with nature; they burying newborn’s umbilical cords there as a forerunner of good fortune) and then finished up at dusk back at the top at the Jagger Museum to watch fire rise up from Kilauea. Definitely a show worth the price of admission, even on a cool, rainy night.

Have you ever been on top of the world? Of course, there are lots of answers to that question, spiritually, emotionally, but at least for a few minutes we were literally physically on one of the largest peaks in the world. After our night in the rain forest (literally, the Volcano Inn has cabins in the rain forest, heated by solar power!) we got an early start and headed further south towards Hilo. We detoured a bit to see the Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Factory (12 flavors, certified Kosher; I wonder which lucky person gets that mashgiach (Kashrut supervision) job?) and then onto the Saddle Road at Hilo to the 34-mile highway drive to Mauna Kea. The road from the highway to the visitor’s center is another 6 miles, and by the time you are there you are 9700 feet above Sea Level.  The road to the summit gets you up to almost 14,000. Not being properly prepared (we were under dressed for the 10 degree temperature and high winds), we hiked up a slope around the visitors center and saw…..way off into the distance. It is no wonder that the ancient Hawaiians were awestruck by this mountain, it’s spirit and the power of its majesty.      

Since (as pointed out last week) we are 6 hours earlier than Montreal time (not to mention 13 hours behind Israel), we figured we would post this early, so that we could indeed wish people Shabbat Shalom! The only problem is that you’re going to miss tomorrow’s kayak ride to Captain Cook, snorkelling with turtles and dolphins (if we are lucky), Shabbat and our last day on Maui on Sunday. Oh well, I guess we may have to write a new chapter with new pictures to share next week! 

It’s so beautiful, we wish you all were here (just not in this one bedroom apartment).

Wishing everyone a blessed and spiritually uplifting Shabbat!

Don’t be afraid to chase a rainbow!

We wish a Refuah Shelema to Zysel Bat Bella

We wish a Refuah Shelema to Noam Shmuel Chaim ben Yehudit

Happy Birthday to Oren
Happy Birthday to Aliza Kessler

Happy Anniversary to Lenny and Yayi